Learning from designs: Weave Stitch Pattern

One of the perks of working as a technical editor is getting to see a range of patterns from a wide range of designers. I learn something new all the time, and I'm a complete learning junkie, so I love it! On Saturday I will be blogging as part of Susan Crawford's Coronation Knits blog tour, and I'll be sharing some of the things I learnt from working with her.

I particularly enjoy technical editing designs by Nick Atkinson. He has worked as a knitwear designer for many of the biggest fashion houses - Donna Karan, Gucci and Pringle, to name just a few! What I enjoy most about his designs is the way that he manipulates stitches. He's not "hampered" by a background in traditional written knitting patterns - he just picks up needles and yarn and sees what happens.

I had the pleasure of editing his Deauville design for Issue 45 of The Knitter, which features an unusual woven effect stitch pattern. It's very simple to work, but a couple of readers had been getting confused with how to do the crossing rows, so we decided that a video was the best way to explain. If you would like to get your hands on a copy of this design, then back issues of The Knitter can be purchased as a digital edition from Zinio or the Apple Newsstand.

Do watch the video, even if you don't want to knit this design - it is a REALLY clever stitch pattern. Simple, but super-effective - my favourite combination!

Tutorial for the Weave Stitch patter used in the Deauville jumper by Nick Atkinson. This jumper can be found in The Knitter, issue 45.

Many thanks to Jim for his wicked filming skillz!

See you on Saturday for Coronation Knits and more new things...

Pattern Checking Basics

Having eased you all in with some posts about things I have been making, I thought it was about time that I posted something geeky about knitting.

First up, what is the difference between pattern checking and technical editing?

I look at the two process as related, but different. Pattern checking is going through a pattern looking for errors, whereas for me, technical editing includes pattern checking, but also correcting any errors (with or without the help of the designer, as needed), re-writing sections for sense, and ensuring that the pattern is written in a consistent style.

We will come back to technical editing at a later date, but in the meantime, here are a few basic starting points for pattern checking. The remainder of this post covers the first step in checking a knitting pattern. It looks at the information section, and provides a checklist of sections that should be included at the start of any knitting pattern.

Size
Check that the size information is appropriate, and that any conversion between metric and imperial has been correctly carried out. If a pattern is designed with negative or positive ease, ensure that the ease is consistent across all sizes. Standard sizing tables are available from websites like Yarn Standards and Ysolda Teague.

Check that any tabulated size information matches the blocking diagram (if one has been provided), and that any sections that should add up, do so. Check length to armhole, armhole depth and shoulder drop add together to make total length. Double check these lengths against the written pattern (if lengths are given in the written pattern).

Yarn
Check that full information has been provided about the yarn. This should include, Yarn company name, range name, fibre content, mass and yardage (or meterage), shade name and any shade code used by the company. If possible, check this information against the yarn company's shade cards or website. Use Ravelry or online stores only as a last resort, as these can be subject to users inputting information incorrectly. Check that the yarn requirements seem appropriate (and if you have the knitted sample available, weigh it to check that it is correct). Check that the yarn specified seems appropriate for the tension information. Yarn companies often make one line in a number of weights (Rowan Pure Wool, Fyberspates Scrumptious, Patons 100% Cotton to name but a few), and it is all too easy to specify the wrong weight. Look at the classic stocking stitch tension information and see if it looks sensible with the pattern tension information. E.g. DK yarns usually knit to around 22 sts and 30 rows, so a cable pattern in DK yarn might knit to 26 sts and 30 rows, as cables will pull inwards in comparison with stocking stitch. If a pattern had a tension of 28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch, it is unlikely that it is knitted with DK yarn, so be sure to check again.

Tension
Check the tension of each stitch pattern against the sample garment. Ensure that these match the tensions given in the pattern, and that as far as possible, all stitch patterns have tension information. Being able to match a cable pattern tension doesn't guarantee that you will match a stocking stitch or colourwork tension in the same pattern, so to ensure success, each tension needs to match. The other reason for needing all tensions, is to work out the dimensions of each section of work.

Needles and Accessories 
Work through the pattern instructions making a note of all needles and equipment required, and ensure that it is all listed in the materials/accessories section. Check that size conversions are given for the needles or crochet hooks used, and that they are correct. Check that the needles seem sensible with the yarn weight used.

Abbreviations
Work through the pattern instructions and make a note of any abbreviations used. Check that there are explanations of any special abbreviations (ones not listed on the general abbreviations list). If the pattern is being published separately, then it is best to include all abbreviations for the avoidance of doubt.

Charts
If a chart is included, make sure that somewhere in the pattern, instructions are given on which way to read the rows of the chart. Ensure that the chart has a key, and that all symbols used on the chart are explained.

Phew! And that's only the very beginning of the process of checking a knitting pattern. I highly recommend checking any discrepancies or uncertainties with the pattern's designer. It may seem evident that something is incorrect, but sometimes, there is a good reason for a value or choice being unusual, and there is nothing worse than realising that you have introduced an error, when your job is to get rid of errors.